Concealer is a crucial tool in any makeup arsenal, providing the means to cover blemishes, brighten dark circles, and correct skin discolorations. However, selecting the right concealer and applying it correctly can make all the difference between a flawless finish and a makeup mishap. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into everything you need to know about choosing and using the best concealer for optimal results.
The Basics of Concealers
Understanding the Purpose of Concealer
Concealer serves multiple functions in makeup application:
Covering blemishes: Hides acne, pimples, veins and other imperfections.
Brightening dark circles: Lightens the under-eye area to give a refreshed appearance.
Correcting skin discolorations: Neutralises unwanted hues in the skin, such as redness or sallow tones.
How to Choose Concealer
Determining Your Skin Undertone
Your skin undertone plays a significant role in choosing the right concealer shade. Know your undertone, and buy a concealer that suits. Undertones can be:
Cool (pink, red, or blue)
Neutral (a mix of warm and cool)
Warm (yellow, golden, or peachy
To determine your undertone, look at the veins on your wrist. Blue veins indicate cool undertones, green veins indicate warm undertones, and a mix suggests neutral undertones. Warm toned people tend to tan easier than cool, and they suit gold jewellery better.
Considering the Type of Problem You Want to Conceal
Different areas of the face may require different concealer shades and types:
Acne, pimples, and small blemishes: Choose a concealer that matches your foundation colour. To find out how to select the best foundation shade, check out our blog on choosing the best foundation colour.
Under-eye area: Select a concealer 1-2 shades lighter than your foundation to brighten the area.
Discolouration and more intense blemishes: Use colour-correcting concealers (see below).
Colour Correcting with Corrective Concealers
Understanding Colour Theory for Correcting Imperfections
Colour correcting concealers are designed to neutralise specific skin discolorations based on the colour wheel.
NOTE: When applied, they neutralise the problem colour, effectively bringing them back to 'white'. Because of this, you will need to add your usual foundation colour over the top to bring it back to a normal skin colour.
Green: Neutralises redness (rosacea, pimples).
Yellow: Balances purple or blue tones (bruises, veins).
Pink: Brightens dark under-eye circles, especially on fair caucasian skin and also hides brown age spots.
Peach: Perfect for hiding dark under-eye circles on more tanned caucasian skin tones.
Orange: Corrects dark under-eye circles on dark skin tones.
Purple: Counteracts yellow undertones (sallow skin).
Techniques for Colour Correcting with Concealer
Apply a colour corrector (if required): Use a small amount on the discoloured area until neutralised.
Blend gently: Use fingers to press the product into the skin, keeping it on the desired area. Brushes and sponges tend to move the product around too much, whereas fingers keep it foucsed where needed.
Layer foundation: Apply your regular foundation over the colour-corrected areas, being careful not to dislodge it.
Add concealer: Gently apply your regular concealer to any areas still needing coverage, paying special attention to the under-eye area, corners of the lips and nose, and tear duct area.
Set with powder: See our blog on face powder choices, best brands and application techniques.
Different Concealer Formulas
Cream vs. Liquid vs. Stick Concealers
Each concealer formula has its own advantages and disadvantages:
Cream Concealers:
Pros: Full coverage, good for dry skin.
Cons: Can be heavy, may crease if not set properly.
Liquid Concealers:
Pros: Lightweight, buildable coverage, suitable for all skin types.
Cons: May not provide enough coverage for severe blemishes.
Stick Concealers:
Pros: Convenient, easy to apply, good for a targeted heavier coverage.
Cons: Can be too thick for under-eye area, may accentuate fine lines.
Choosing the Best Formula for Your Skin Type
Various concealer formulas may benefit different skin types. If you are unsure which skin type you have, you can read our blog on identifying your skin type and how to best care for it.
Oily Skin: Opt for oil-free, mattifying formulas.
Dry Skin or Mature Skin: Choose hydrating, creamy concealers.
Combination Skin: Use a mix of formulas depending on the area (e.g., liquid for under-eyes, stick for blemishes).
Sensitive Skin: Use hypoallergenic or 100% natural mineral concealers.
Correcting Under-Eye Dark Circles
How to Apply Concealer Under the Eyes
Prep the skin: Use a primer before applying makeup.
Use colour-correctors if needed: This only applies to heavily dark under-eye areas.
Apply concealer in an inverted triangle shape: Draw a triangle with the base under your eye and the point towards your cheek.
Blend: Use a sponge, brush or finger to blend the concealer gently.
Set: Use a light dusting of translucent powder to set the concealer and prevent creasing.
Concealer Tips and Tricks
How to Prevent Creasing and Caking
Prep the skin: Hydrate your skin well before applying concealer.
Use a primer: Especially for oily skin or areas prone to creasing.
Build coverage slowly: Layer thin applications rather than applying a thick coat.
Set properly: Always set your concealer with a translucent powder on a fluffy powder brush to hold it in place all day long. Finish with a setting spray once your whole makeup is complete.
Additional Tips
Mix textures: Combine liquid and creme concealers for customizable coverage, just make sure their base ingredients match your foundation. For example, use water-based products together and oil-based products together. Whichever you choose, be consistent to prevent products not mixing well. For more information on this, read our blog on choosing foundation formulas.
Brighten other areas: You can use your under-eye concealer to highlight the brow bone, bridge of the nose, and chin. Especially if it has a shimmery finish!
Choosing and applying the right concealer can transform your makeup routine, providing a flawless finish and boosting your confidence. Remember to match your concealer to your foundation type (water-based with water-based, oil with oil-based), select the right shade for your needs, and consider colour-correcting products for more serious skin discolourations. With the right techniques and productws, you can achieve a uniform complexion that lasts all day.
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