Have you ever experienced the scenario where you apply eyeliner all the way along the natural lash line, yet when you (or your client) opens their eye, the eyeliner seems to look longer than it should? It drags the eye downwards making it appear heavy and droopy. Not an attractive look at all!
There is very good reason for this. Everyone has what I like to refer to as a 'Magic Place' on their eye; a point where makeup should never venture beyond, lest you end up looking like Liza Minelli after a sleepless week touring! Knowing where to find this point on the face is the very first step in creating beautiful, almondy eyes that look awake, polished and uplifted.
This technique is universal in that it suits EVERYONE, however it is an absolutely essential tool for those with down-turned or problematic eye shapes where a visual 'lift' is needed.
LOCATING THE 'MAGIC PLACE' ON THE EYE
To find the Magic Place on the Eye, simply lay the handle of a thin makeup brush from the corner of your nose to the outer corner of your eye (see diagram). The imaginary line that is created from the corner of the eye to the eyebrow is extremely important in makeup application. Not only is it where the tail of your eyebrow should end, but it's also the 'geofence' that your makeup should never pass beyond. Keeping your eyeshadow, eyeliner and even false lashes within this boundary will create an end result that is noticeably elevated. Use it to up your makeup game!
Let's take a look at some photo examples below.
NOTE: These have been dramatised to illustrate the effect better.
EXAMPLE 1: EYE LIFT WITH MAKEUP FOR DOWN-TURNED EYES
The image on the left had eyeliner applied with the eye closed, along the full length of the natural lash line. When the eye is opened, the eyeliner has gone past the Magic Place on the Eye and is accentuating this lady's down-turned eye shape. Down-turned eyes can read as 'sadness' in the eyes and are generally considered less attractive than uplifted eyes.
The image on the right had the Magic Place on the Eye marked out first when her eyes were open. When the eyeliner was applied, the makeup artist knew which point not to pass. It was slightly thickened from the mid-point to the tail end, which creates a 'triangular' shape instead of a tapered tail. This shape is also important to give the illusion of 'lift'.
By making this small adjustment and not extending the eyeliner tail too far, her eyes look lifted, awake and more appealing.
Once you have the basic eyeliner applied as per the photo above right, you can then play around and make it as dramatic as you like. Sticking within the boundaries of the Magic Place on the Eye will ensure no matter what shape you choose, the eyes will never droop downwards. Remember to keep your eyeshadow and lashes within the imaginary line also.
EXAMPLE 2: LINING ALL THE WAY ALONG THE LASH LINE CAUSES DROOP
INCORRECT LINING
A novice makeup artist will ask their client to close their eye, and line it ALL THE WAY along the entire lash line without considering the Magic Place on the Eye.
LONG TAILS DRAG EYES DOWN
When the client opens their eye, there will be a 'tail' that hangs down below the lowest point of the eye, creating visual droop. This isn't quite as obvious on those with 'normal' shaped eyes, however down-turned or problematic eye shapes will suffer greatly.
MARK OUT THE MAGIC PLACE
Instead, the makeup artist should mark the 'Magic Place' on the eye whilst the client has their eye open. They can do this with eyeliner or eyeshadow on an angled brush.
CREATE VISUAL LIFT!
When the client closes their eyes, the eyeliner should only be applied up to that point. Creating a 'triangular' shape at the outer corner gives the perfect visual lift to the eyes.
EXAMPLE 3: FALSE LASHES CAN MAKE OR BREAK THE EYES
INCORRECT: APPLYING LASHES TO THE ENTIRE LASH LINE
If false lashes are applied all the way along the natural lash line, when the client opens their eyes the lashes will hang down too low and drag the eyes downwards.
CORRECT: START 2MM IN FROM THE END OF THE LASH LINE
Instead, apply lashes so they finish about 2mm before the natural lash line ends (you may need to adjust this distance for each individual). This will ensure the lashes fall within the Magic Place on the Eye and the eyes remain lifted. Note: in the photo the lash hairs have passed the Magic Place, however the lash band falls within the boundary. So long as the lashes aren't excessively past the line, it will create lift.
So there you have it! The eyes are the windows to the soul, and everyone wants their peepers to look the best that they can. This is my favourite makeup hack and probably one of, if not THE most important tricks of the trade. Surprisingly, a lot of professional makeup artists aren't aware of it. Try it out, ditch the plastic surgeon, and learn to give an eye lift with makeup alone.
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